ROME! Day One August 29
Rooftop view from Hotel Smeraldo
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The Car to Smeraldo: or... The mysteries of staying fully connected and “synced up” to our modern technical devices while witnessing the eternal richness of Rome.
From our expert writer Diana: (all but dissertation!) Anne had introduced us to the wonders of portable “hot spots” which should allow full internet access even if one is descending down miles of cattacombs. We sat in the hotel café, drinking cappuccino and trying to make Susan’s portable hot spot do right. But she kept getting the baffling message that even though her phone had detected her portable hot spot, no internet connection was available. Another cool tool we’re using is an app called “Splitwise,” which creates a digital record of who owes what to whom and then blurts out notifications to keep us on track with settling bills. But our first day in Rome found us peering into our phones, looking for the record that Susan had paid for the taxi cab from the airport to Hotel Smeraldo. No syncing up was to be had. Nowhere could we find the mysterious car to Smeraldo. Despite the technical glitches, we ventured into the heart of Rome. Here under the white tents of the Campo de' Fiore merchants (mostly from India) sell everything from the kitschy to the sublime. The perimeter of the piazza is dotted with cafes, gelaterias, and caffes. But presiding over the square is the sober presence of Giordano Bruno, an “intellectual heretic” who, friend and Italian expert Mike Anglin relates, defied the Catholic Church and paid dearly for it. Bruno had the idea that our Earth revolved around the sun, not vice versa. For this radical notion he was burned on this spot in 1600. Whenever Mike visits the Campo de' Fiori, he puts a red rose at the foot of Bruno’s statue, honoring Bruno’s bravery and sacrifice. Here is Anne with a red rose honoring Giordano Bruno. After paying homage to Bruno, we headed out to explore the neighborhood and nearby Campo di Fiori. It's a charming neighborhood , with unbelievably narrow streets set like jigsaw pieces. Also, streets often change names at intersections so it's an added challenge to follow a map. Passed many small shops, trattorias, bars, and cafes every short block. Streets are often paved with cobblestones , buildings brightly coloured , and motorbikes speed by. Larger vehicles drive here, too, but they are mostly compact. The van driver that brought us from the airport was a miracle worker as he navigated the streets, dodging parked cars, scooters, and people. No scrapes or dents!!We were quite punch drunk by evening due to jet lag, resulting in a couple of hilarious situations. Or so it seemed to us! We had a good laugh over the simple exercise of getting on an elevator. We were discussing whether to go up to the 4th or 5th floor to reach the rooftop bar, or whether perhaps to go back to the front desk to ask, when the door closed prematurely, leaving Susan locked out. Diana and Anne claim there was no button telling the door to open….so Susan was left standing on the landing while the elevator took off. We also had a ridiculously hard time matching our location to the map, so finding our way back to the hotel we made more than a few wrong turns. After Campo di Fiori, our walking tour took us to Piazza Farnese which featured a building designed by Michelangelo as well as 2 enormous bathtubs (think Smart Cars) that are supposed to have been taken from the ancient Baths of Caracalla site. Next site was a bust of Pasquino, where folks for 500 years have been leaving gripes, comments, and announcements. We left ours, “We'll take Pasquino if you take Trump!” From there, it was a short walk to Piazza Navona. This large rectangular open space has 3 sculptures, most famous of which is Bernini's Four Rivers. Overcome by heat, walking, and lack of sleep, we stopped at a piazza-side cafe and shared bruschetta, caprese salad, and wine. We made our way back to the hotel FINALLY , took a brief break, and headed out again. Dinner was salad and a real Italian pizza at a neighborhood restaurant...and of course wine! So delicious! We were tucked in by 8:30 and grateful to be sleeping horizontally again as God intended. |
Day Two
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After a good night's rest, fortifying cappuccinos, we struck out for the colosseum and our tour with an archeologist. It is a wonderful example of ancient, massive living history as well as a reminder of Roman power and cruelty. Then it was on to the Forum and Palantine Hill. We had no idea how massive it is! One must be hardy and badass to take it all in! It provides a unique insight into the Roman civilization and the magnificent structures that survived thousands of years. So 5 1/2 hours later...bedraggled, sunworn, and in need of sustenance we found our way to Ristorante Naumachia for some fabulous wine and homemade pasta. We returned to the hotel and succumbed to a wee siesta. We were recovered enough by early evening to take a love stroll or passeggiata with our gelato (yum). It was a cool evening and we returned to Campo de' Fiori which had made a transformation from day market to evening piazza cafes, bands, and milling folks. We ended our lovely evening by enjoying some wine and then a limoncello at a pleasant sidewalk café, people watching.
Susan's Day 2 Essay:
Day 2, August 30. Woke up feeling refreshed and ready to tackle Rome! Taxi took us to the Colosseum with time to spare before our 10:30 tour. We found a shady spot to sit and listen to an audio tour about the Colosseum while we waited. Colosseum is very impressive, especially since this large, heavy structure was built 2000 years ago without modern machinery, and that it was built after draining the lake that had been on the site. Over time, after the fall of the Empire, the structure has been stripped of nearly all its valuable marble facade and seats. But what a propaganda tool it was while it lasted! It was free to attend shows there, so peasants were able to escape the drudgery and brutality of daily life at the games. Also, the emperor would sometimes poll the audience before making his decision: Should this gladiator live or die? Thus, even ordinary citizens would sometimes feel that they could advise the emperor. The floor was constructed with 80 trap doors, each with a lift which could raise a wild animal or a gladiator to floor level at any moment. Floor was covered with 9 feet of sand, fake foliage, etc. It must have been quite a show. The descriptions feature gore and brutality. Life in ancient Rome was hard. From there, we headed to the Roman Forum, adjacent. The Arch of Titus greeted us. It looks across the forum, straight to Capitoline Hill. In the Forum, we saw the Basilica of Constantine, an enormous hall where Roman citizens carried on legal business, sort of like the Hunt County courthouse! There were also numerous temples, including the Temple of Julius Caesar, marking the spot where his body was burned following his assassination. Also saw the Senate building, the Curia. Next we headed up Palatine Hill overlooking the Forum. Up here, where cooling breezes blew, the upper crust (emperors especially) over the ages built villas and palaces complete with gardens. So much history!
We had covered a LOT of territory in August heat, and we were feeling It! We chose the lesser of two evils (being scalped by a cab driver vs eating in a blah touristy spot within easy reach) and had ourselves a lovely meal. Swordfish, salad, homemade pasta. Back in the room, we collapsed for a little nap. Afterward, we tried some gelato across the vicolo (alley) from our hotel, followed by a stroll to a sidewalk cafe at Campo di Fiori where we sampled wine and limoncello.
After a good night's rest, fortifying cappuccinos, we struck out for the colosseum and our tour with an archeologist. It is a wonderful example of ancient, massive living history as well as a reminder of Roman power and cruelty. Then it was on to the Forum and Palantine Hill. We had no idea how massive it is! One must be hardy and badass to take it all in! It provides a unique insight into the Roman civilization and the magnificent structures that survived thousands of years. So 5 1/2 hours later...bedraggled, sunworn, and in need of sustenance we found our way to Ristorante Naumachia for some fabulous wine and homemade pasta. We returned to the hotel and succumbed to a wee siesta. We were recovered enough by early evening to take a love stroll or passeggiata with our gelato (yum). It was a cool evening and we returned to Campo de' Fiori which had made a transformation from day market to evening piazza cafes, bands, and milling folks. We ended our lovely evening by enjoying some wine and then a limoncello at a pleasant sidewalk café, people watching.
Susan's Day 2 Essay:
Day 2, August 30. Woke up feeling refreshed and ready to tackle Rome! Taxi took us to the Colosseum with time to spare before our 10:30 tour. We found a shady spot to sit and listen to an audio tour about the Colosseum while we waited. Colosseum is very impressive, especially since this large, heavy structure was built 2000 years ago without modern machinery, and that it was built after draining the lake that had been on the site. Over time, after the fall of the Empire, the structure has been stripped of nearly all its valuable marble facade and seats. But what a propaganda tool it was while it lasted! It was free to attend shows there, so peasants were able to escape the drudgery and brutality of daily life at the games. Also, the emperor would sometimes poll the audience before making his decision: Should this gladiator live or die? Thus, even ordinary citizens would sometimes feel that they could advise the emperor. The floor was constructed with 80 trap doors, each with a lift which could raise a wild animal or a gladiator to floor level at any moment. Floor was covered with 9 feet of sand, fake foliage, etc. It must have been quite a show. The descriptions feature gore and brutality. Life in ancient Rome was hard. From there, we headed to the Roman Forum, adjacent. The Arch of Titus greeted us. It looks across the forum, straight to Capitoline Hill. In the Forum, we saw the Basilica of Constantine, an enormous hall where Roman citizens carried on legal business, sort of like the Hunt County courthouse! There were also numerous temples, including the Temple of Julius Caesar, marking the spot where his body was burned following his assassination. Also saw the Senate building, the Curia. Next we headed up Palatine Hill overlooking the Forum. Up here, where cooling breezes blew, the upper crust (emperors especially) over the ages built villas and palaces complete with gardens. So much history!
We had covered a LOT of territory in August heat, and we were feeling It! We chose the lesser of two evils (being scalped by a cab driver vs eating in a blah touristy spot within easy reach) and had ourselves a lovely meal. Swordfish, salad, homemade pasta. Back in the room, we collapsed for a little nap. Afterward, we tried some gelato across the vicolo (alley) from our hotel, followed by a stroll to a sidewalk cafe at Campo di Fiori where we sampled wine and limoncello.
Day Three
Where to begin.....feeling well rested and pretty damn confident in our ability to to navigate Rome, we strolled to Largo De Argentino and hailed a taxi- just exactly like Mike Anglin instructed us to do! We joined the throng of tourists and much polizia and carabinieri presence (they have semi automatic weapons and look fierce) and arrived at the Spanish Steps. The wide, curving staircase of 138 steps is one of Rome's iconic sites. Nearby is the Palazzo di Propoganda Fide, the Catholic Church's "PR" department as well as the 300 year old At Spanish Embassy thus the Spanish Steps. At the foot of the steps is Bernini's Sinking Boat fountain still powered by water from an aqueduct! The Via Condetti, the equivalent of NYC's 5th avenue is home to many very high end boutiques. We aquired our luncheon at the Caffe Greco famous historic landmark café which opened in 1760 on Via dei Condotti. It is the oldest bar in Rome. It was frequented by writers, poets, artists, and politicians. Some of those included Lord Bryon, Keats, Hans Christian Anderson, and Princess Diana. Our next stop for the day was a scheduled tour of the Borghese Gallery and tram tour of the Villa Borghese gardens/park. It was amazing, Diana and Susan will further discuss what we saw. Susan Patton would have loved it as we had the most knowledgeable and cute guide!
In the same day we continued on to yet another iconic Roman site...the Pantheon. Words fail. As we exited the Pantheon we strolled across the Piazza de Rotunda and went to a sidewalk cafe recommended by Rome expert, Mike Anglin. It did not disappoint as we sipped wine and watched evening descend. It was a most delightful and pleasant place.
Susan's Epistle on the day:The gallery, truly a palace, was once the residence of a well-connected (nephew of Pope Paul IV) cardinal, and also a patron of Bernini. The opulence was over the top. Now the palace is a museum space, and we were there to see the art. There were many Bernini pieces, one done when he was 12 only years old. His father was a sculptor, and Bernini liked to play with leftover chunks of marble. This piece convinced Cardinal Borghese that the boy had talent, and so began a long relationship between the sculptor and the cardinal. Cecilia, our guide, helped us focus on important pieces, and filled in the blanks for us in terms of cultural and contemporary references, history, artistic techniques, etc, for the paintings, sculptures and mosaics we saw. Afterward, we rode a tram around the grounds. It's now a huge park, reminded us of Central Park, complete with zoo, puppet theatre, kiddie park, museum, and your basic ornate marble fountains and statues. Beautiful area, with many people and families out enjoying the evening.
We returned to the city by cab and were delivered to the Pantheon. What an unforgettable sight! Built around 1900 years ago by Hadrian, the Pantheon is exactly as wide as it is tall, 142 feet. Dome at the base is 23 feet thick, and at the top less than 5 feet thick. The columns are 40 feet tall and 15 feet around, and were quarried in Egypt. The planning and engineering required to build this temple (which later became a Christian church) and to transport the columns in unbroken pieces boggles the mind! It is a very peaceful place. Unbelievable. Dinner was on the piazza overlooking the Pantheon. We actually ate at a restaurant recommended by Mike Anglin, and met his waiter buddy, Salvatore. Our waiter was Roberto, also a character, and kept us entertained. A busker was singing opera in the piazza during our meal. Bellisssimo! We noticed a woman looking down on the piazza from her third floor apartment, drinking tea. However, over the time we were there, we saw that her movements were mechanical and predictable. We concluded that she was a bot, on the Italian homeland security payroll!
In the same day we continued on to yet another iconic Roman site...the Pantheon. Words fail. As we exited the Pantheon we strolled across the Piazza de Rotunda and went to a sidewalk cafe recommended by Rome expert, Mike Anglin. It did not disappoint as we sipped wine and watched evening descend. It was a most delightful and pleasant place.
Susan's Epistle on the day:The gallery, truly a palace, was once the residence of a well-connected (nephew of Pope Paul IV) cardinal, and also a patron of Bernini. The opulence was over the top. Now the palace is a museum space, and we were there to see the art. There were many Bernini pieces, one done when he was 12 only years old. His father was a sculptor, and Bernini liked to play with leftover chunks of marble. This piece convinced Cardinal Borghese that the boy had talent, and so began a long relationship between the sculptor and the cardinal. Cecilia, our guide, helped us focus on important pieces, and filled in the blanks for us in terms of cultural and contemporary references, history, artistic techniques, etc, for the paintings, sculptures and mosaics we saw. Afterward, we rode a tram around the grounds. It's now a huge park, reminded us of Central Park, complete with zoo, puppet theatre, kiddie park, museum, and your basic ornate marble fountains and statues. Beautiful area, with many people and families out enjoying the evening.
We returned to the city by cab and were delivered to the Pantheon. What an unforgettable sight! Built around 1900 years ago by Hadrian, the Pantheon is exactly as wide as it is tall, 142 feet. Dome at the base is 23 feet thick, and at the top less than 5 feet thick. The columns are 40 feet tall and 15 feet around, and were quarried in Egypt. The planning and engineering required to build this temple (which later became a Christian church) and to transport the columns in unbroken pieces boggles the mind! It is a very peaceful place. Unbelievable. Dinner was on the piazza overlooking the Pantheon. We actually ate at a restaurant recommended by Mike Anglin, and met his waiter buddy, Salvatore. Our waiter was Roberto, also a character, and kept us entertained. A busker was singing opera in the piazza during our meal. Bellisssimo! We noticed a woman looking down on the piazza from her third floor apartment, drinking tea. However, over the time we were there, we saw that her movements were mechanical and predictable. We concluded that she was a bot, on the Italian homeland security payroll!
Day Four
Day 4, Sept 1
We sat in the hotel breakfast area drinking bottomless cups of cappuccino and working on the blog before heading out into the city. Lunch was take-out from the forno We walked through narrow and twisted streets that had a medieval feel. After a bit, we arrived at the magnificent Trevi Fountain. It is built into the side of a building, and everything on it represents water. It's also connected with the wealth of the church, as it was commissioned by a pope. The Trevi was built on the site of an ancient watering hole, and has been a gathering place for centuries. There are lots of people the day we were there. Great people watching. One could even say that a couple of folks there had crossed the line between outfit and get-up. We saw a guard whose job it was to keep people from getting in the Trevi Fountain, and he was being kept busy! We then walked to a sidewalk cafe near the Presidential Palace and had a glass of wine before meeting up with our tour group. Introductions were made and we set out on a brief walking tour of the neighborhood. Dinner was all together at a restaurant near the hotel, served in multiple courses with pasta, of course!
We sat in the hotel breakfast area drinking bottomless cups of cappuccino and working on the blog before heading out into the city. Lunch was take-out from the forno We walked through narrow and twisted streets that had a medieval feel. After a bit, we arrived at the magnificent Trevi Fountain. It is built into the side of a building, and everything on it represents water. It's also connected with the wealth of the church, as it was commissioned by a pope. The Trevi was built on the site of an ancient watering hole, and has been a gathering place for centuries. There are lots of people the day we were there. Great people watching. One could even say that a couple of folks there had crossed the line between outfit and get-up. We saw a guard whose job it was to keep people from getting in the Trevi Fountain, and he was being kept busy! We then walked to a sidewalk cafe near the Presidential Palace and had a glass of wine before meeting up with our tour group. Introductions were made and we set out on a brief walking tour of the neighborhood. Dinner was all together at a restaurant near the hotel, served in multiple courses with pasta, of course!